At JAAN by Kirk Westaway, a majestic panoramic view of Singapore’s central business district (CBD) greets the eye. Located 70 storeys above the ground at Swissôtel The Stamford, the internationally celebrated restaurant also boasts an impressive collection of accolades, including two Michelin stars in 2021, ranking 42nd in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2021, and one Michelin star in 2020.
For the uninitiated, JAAN started out as a French restaurant in 2001, during when Chef Andre Chiang was behind the stove. Chef Julien Royer of the three-Michelin-starred Odette took over the helm in 2011 but when he left in 2015, he handed the reins of JAAN over to his protégé Kirk Westaway.
In an interview with Timeout Singapore, Chef Westaway confessed that the pressure to perform well was insurmountable. “Now, the boy from Devon is going to take over – English boy, good luck. He’s going to be a disaster. Jaan’s going to fail,” he said, before cutting off all contacts with the world to focus on his craft over the span of six months.
Chef Westaway’s philosophy, as it turns out, is all about showcasing British cuisine in a modern and innovative manner, or as he says ‘Reinventing British’. He does so by spotlighting seasonal produce or traditional British fares. Take for instance the Hens Egg with Barbecued Celeriac and Black Truffle, which is a refreshed interpretation of the classic British eggs and soldiers dish that has been imbued with a deeper and smokier flavour. Under his direction, JAAN by Kirk Westaway is Asia’s only modern British restaurant and has earned high praises from diners and critics alike.
Given the unpredictable and challenging year the food and beverage industry went through during the pandemic, receiving not one, but two Michelin stars (the restaurant’s and Mr Westaway’s first) this year was an unexpected surprise for the team at JAAN. The executive chef says: “The second star was admittedly a very appreciated affirmation. It is a testament of not only the team’s hard work and dedication, but also our enduring commitment to putting a definitive mark on modern British cuisine.”
In this series of Crew Eats, we hear from Kirk Westaway, executive chef of JAAN; head chef Ng Guo Lun, senior sommelier Tan Chuan Ann, assistant manager Rashelle Bantolina, and restaurant executives Dorothy Ling and Steven Lee about their favourite dining haunts.
Kirk Westaway, Executive Chef at JAAN by Kirk Westaway
Executive chef Kirk Westaway will be celebrating his 10-year anniversary under the hospitality hotel group Accor this coming December. He says: “A big part of what keeps me going over the last decade is my team. They are incredibly passionate, talented and hardworking and there is a familial spirit, even amidst the intensity of the restaurant environment.”
Chef Westaway says the restaurant scene is dynamic and ever-changing, making it “difficult to pinpoint a favourite restaurant”. And yet, in his quest to unearth new food establishments, he found sustainability-focused restaurant Kausmo a delight to visit. “(Kausmo) embraces a progressive culinary philosophy that bucks the practice of aesthetic filtering by using ‘imperfect’ produce that are typically discarded,” Chef Westaway says. In fact, the restaurant is helmed by JAAN alumni member Lisa Tang.
According to Chef Westaway, dishes at Kausmo are thoughtfully curated using ethically sourced ingredients and, thus, “full of character”. He adds: “What’s arresting is how Lisa intently elevates ‘unattractive’ ingredients with finesse to provoke thought and embody a meaningful perspective.”
Kausmo
Address: 1 Scotts Road, #03 – 07, Singapore 228208
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 6.30pm – 10.30pm; Closed on Monday
Ng Guo Lun, Head Chef
Like Candlenut’s chef-owner Malcolm Tan, JAAN’s head chef Ng Guo Lun enjoys dining out at the acclaimed tze char (Hokkein for stir fry) restaurant Keng Eng Kee Seafood. “I was fortunate enough to befriend the owners during a work trip and have been patronising their restaurant ever since,” says the Singaporean father of two.
Chef Ng adds: “Keng Eng Kee seafood is renowned for its Chilli Crab, Silky Moonlight Hor Fun, and my personal favourite, Coffee Pork Ribs. The pork ribs are deep-fried and glazed with a roasted coffee caramel, giving it a bitter and sweet taste that’s to die for.”
Keng Eng Kee Seafood
Address: 124 Bukit Merah Lane 1, #01-136, Singapore 150124
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 11.30am – 2pm; 5pm – 10pm
Rashelle Bantolina, Assistant Manager
Assistant manager Rashelle Bantolina frequents the hawker centre near her home with her husband. The 32-year-old Filipina professes her love for hokkien mee, or fried prawn noodles, cooked by a local hawker at Bukit Panjang Hawker Centre and Market. Highlighting how she likes her hokkien mee tangy, she would often get extra servings of lime with it. “Ever since my husband recommended it to me, I’ve been hooked! In fact, the stall owner recognises me too!” she says.
On what piqued her interest in the dish, Ms Bantolina praises its umami-filled profile that pairs well with the tartness of the lime, while the crunch from the pork lard is extremely addictive too. She adds: “The hawker is also very generous with his portions too.”
Bukit Panjang Hawker Centre and Market
Address: 2 Bukit Panjang Ring Road, Singapore 679947
Opening hours: Monday – Sunday: 6am – 10pm
Tan Chuan Ann, Senior Sommelier
A former sommelier at Shangri-La Hotel Singapore, Mr Tan Chuan Ann is JAAN’s senior sommelier. An adventurous soul, the 33-year-old Malaysian would traverse the sunny island in search of good food and unorthodox culinary experiences. The self-professed lor mee lover recommends dining at his go-to haunt is the award-winning hawker Xin Mei Xiang Lor Mee at Old Airport Road Food Centre. Mr Tan says: “Its lor mee features a rich gravy that is balanced with vinegar and spices. It also stands out from the rest because it offers hand-peeled fish as a topping. It’s a must-eat in my books!”
Old Airport Road Food Centre
Address: 51 Old Airport Road, Singapore 390051
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 6am – 11pm
Dorothy Ling, Restaurant Executive
Originally from Sarawak in northwestern Malaysia, restaurant executive Dorothy Ling is looking forward to returning home when the much-anticipated vaccinated travel lane (VTL) between Singapore and Malaysia opens. Like many Malaysians who are unable to return home due to the pandemic’s restriction, Ms Ling often feels homesick. Her way of coping? Sarawakian dishes at Shi Wei Tian Coffeeshop at Kaki Bukit — from Sarawak laksa, which contains no curry but a tart and spicy soup base made using sambal belacan, galangal, lemongrass, and assam (sour tamarind) to kolo mee. The 29-year-old recommends first-timers to try the stall’s kampua mee, a variant of kolo mee that comes with straight noodle strands instead of its curly twin. She adds: “It is a flavourful dish that is lightly seasoned with a mixture of shallot oil, soy sauce and pork lard. To me, that is the ultimate comfort food that truly reminds me of home!”
Shi Wei Tian Coffeeshop
Address: 31 Kaki Bukit Road 3, Singapore 417818
Opening hours: Monday to Friday: 6.30am – 6.30pm; Saturday: 12am – 3.30pm; Closed on Sundays
Steven Lee, Restaurant Executive
As someone who occasionally works into the wee hours, restaurant executive Steven Lee knows a thing or two about the best supper spots in town. One of his favourites is Tian Tian Seafood Restaurant, which is located on the outskirts of the CBD along Outram Road. With close to two decades of history, the tze char restaurant sees eager patrons making a beeline from a little after half-past six in the evening. “(Tian Tian Seafood Restaurant) was recommended to me by Chef Kirk,” Mr Lee says. “The food and service are top-notch, making Tian Tian Seafood Restaurant a repeatable experience. Furthermore, it opens till late, which is perfect for those who work in the F&B industry!”
Tian Tian Seafood Restaurant
Address: 239 Outram Road, Singapore 169042
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday: 5pm – 3am
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